A common problem behaviour I’m asked to help with in my role as a Dog Listener is where a dog is highly reactive when on a lead. The typical behaviours displayed include barking and lunging and this is usually directed towards other dogs, people and even moving vehicles. Other dogs may whine, spin, growl, shake, and even bite whatever is closest when on the lead. Even dogs that “play well with others” in the park may show some of these behaviours when on the lead. So, what do you do about it?
Barking and lunging is one possible reaction to the presence of another dog and almost any dog can be taught a different reaction. Many dogs who bark and lunge don’t behave as though they’re aware of an alternative behaviour. However, when you teach them a different response, many dogs are happy to use it, as in essence dogs are non-confrontational creatures. So, if they can avoid a fight they will. Below are the different responses you can teach your dog.
1. The Watch – If you teach your dog to react at the sight of another dog by looking at you, your problem is basically solved. Although this sounds simple and it is, you do need to put the practice in to teach your dog every time he sees another dog he looks at you, and you need to practice in varying situations. Like when learning anything new, you need to be patient and practice until your response and your dog’s response becomes automatic. So, ultimately you’re able to walk down the street and another dog approaches, your dog automatically looks away from the dog and looks up to your face, without you having to say anything. Eventually, most dogs are able to walk right by without a fuss. To teach the Watch: go to a quiet place (e.g.) garden, as your dog potters around say “Watch”. Have your food reward up by your face, and if he stops and turns to look at you, immediately say “Good” and reward with food and then play with your dog (this helps build a positive association with Watch). If your dog doesn’t turn his head, place the food under his nose to lure him around to look at you. As you progress, slowly increase the level of difficulty practising in areas where there are more distractions. So, what happens if a dog pops up out of no-where? Then you can use the U-turn…
2. The U-turn – This enables you to quickly and calmly steer your dog willingly away from the other dog helping to avoid a confrontation. To teach this you need to decide what word you’re going to use (e.g.) “Turn”, “This Way”, “Let’s Go”. Go to a quiet area with your treats in your right hand, stride forward with your dog on the left. (Reverse instructions if your dog walks on the right). Don’t worry about getting your dog right by your side, just avoid having him more than a body length away. When you’re just a little more in front of your dog, move briskly forward, say “Turn” in an excited voice, pivot on your right leg, turning your body to the right and continue forward. You should be 180 degrees from where you were going, continue to walk forward. Use your toy/ treats to lure your dog around with you as you turn. You may want to use a tongue ‘click’ to help get your dog’s attention. Praise and give your dog his reward. As you progress, slowly introduce distractions.
3. Emergency Sit/Stay – If an off lead dog rushes up to you and your dog is on the lead and you can’t get away, you would then use the ‘Emergency Sit and Stay’. This is where your dog will go on a reliable Emergency Sit/Stay behind you, while you use new skills to handle the dog charging toward you.
Modelling – In situations where you dog gets startled, excitable, confused, avoid re-assuring tones and postures as this can confuse your pet. Instead, stand tall and act as if nothing has happen. Be calm and convincing and this will help calm your dog down.
Right equipment – Avoid using extendable leads, they don’t give you the control you need to keep a reactive dog out of trouble. Use a flat nylon lead, approx 6 ft in length. A buckle collar or harness also gives you more control, as it prevents your dog slipping through his collar. Avoid collars that tighten or cause pain, these can cause tissue and vertebrate damage, and over time the painful sensation from the tightening can build a negative association towards other dogs. In other words, if the dog only experiences such pain when he sees another dog because he’s pulling, in time he’ll associate ‘pain = other dogs’.
Treats – Never leave home without them! Use food or a favourite play toy as reward. You’ve vying for your dog’s attention against some major distractions, so use a high value foods such as cheese, cooked chicken rather than lower value foods like kibble.
For more information or to book a one to one dog behaviour consultation, please email hanne@doglistener.tv,
